Thursday, December 31, 2015

¡Viva México!

In late October, all of the volunteers in my cohort got together for our Mid-Service Training (MST).  It was a great time to see everyone as well as gear up for the next year of training.  Following this, D.H., one of my close friends and fellow Q’eqchi volunteer, and I took a vacation up to Mexico City.  If you’re like me, you may have been under the assumption that Mexico as a whole was a dry, desolate place filled with adobe shacks and drug lords.  Despite the fact that we were going to the city, I still didn’t anticipate much more than your typical developing country big city: dirty, probably kind of smelly, maybe some skyscrapers, and poor.  Upon landing, I realized that everything that I had anticipated was completely wrong.  There was a solid infrastructure, beautiful multilane highways, buses with air conditioning and toilets, and insane skyscrapers, just to mention a few things. 

To get to the City, D.H. and took a bus from Belize City up to Cancun, Mexico and then caught our flight out of Cancun.  At some point during the bus ride, we had to stop to get passports stamped and that sort of thing.  When we got off the bus, I knew we weren’t in Belize any more.  The road had opened up to four lanes and there were light poles on the side, things I hadn’t seen since I arrived to Belize a year and a half ago.

Once at the airport, we just had to hope and pray that our flight hadn’t been canceled.  We just so happened to be flying the day after Hurricane Patricia, the strongest hurricane in history, had made land fall.  D.H. is one of those people that is almost impossible to read, but I assure you, I appeared nervous enough for the both of us, especially once we were up in the air.  Every time the plane hit some turbulence, I was white knuckling it.  Luckily we arrived safely to Mexico City, grabbed some authentic Mexican street food, and were on another bus down to the smaller city of Puebla.

The day after we arrived in Puebla, we took a trip down to the historic district.  It was crazy to be in an actually city again.  There was historic architecture everywhere and the place seemed filled with this sort of Mexican culture and pride.  Once we were at the forts, I learned that Puebla was actually the site of the Cince de Mayo battle with the French that we continue to celebrate today.  It was really cool to see a city that had been so significant in Mexican history and that we still celebrate today.
 

The following day, D.H. and I decided we wanted to go on a hike, but we had no idea where to go for such an activity.  We scoured the internet and wracked the brains of our hosts that we had found on Air BNB.  We were at this for probably about an hour before we decided on a place called Alchichica.  Again, we hopped on a bus (yes, with toilets) and were on our way.  Eventually, someone indicated that we should probably get off, which was lucky because we probably would have continued to travel to God knows where and had no idea that we had driven right past the old sulfur lake. 

The hike ended up being incredible! There was a ridge on the far end away from the road that rose way above the lake and allowed for an incredible view of the surrounding farms.  The hike wasn’t too arduous in the beginning; there was a nice little path and the hills weren’t too steep.  At one point, though, we realized that to make it to the top, we’d have to ditch the path.  Anyone who knows me knows that veering too far from the path freaks me out a little bit.  At one point while walking along the ridge, if we’d have fallen to the left or to the right, we’d have rolled all the way to the bottom.  The hike, though, was just a reminder to me that, sometimes, to get the best view, you just gotta leave the trail behind.  I suppose the same can be said for life. 


The following day, we made our way back to Mexico City where we would spend the remainder of our trip.  The difference between little, old Belize and this metropolis where I would be spending the next five days was insane.  Just the sheer number of people was enough to blow my mind.  I had come from a country of about 360,000 to a city of 8.5 million.  We reached the city (and all its traffic) about an hour to an hour and a half before actually making it to the bus stop; along the side of the road was a sea of houses, buildings, and humanity.  Once we arrived, D.H. and I spent the rest of the day just getting to see the city and taking it all in. 

During our second or third day, we decided to just kick it some.  We went and visited the Anthropology Museum where we got to meet Lucy, or at least see her bones.  My favorite exhibit, though, was the Mayan one.  We had also heard about a Little Seoul that was fairly close to the museum, and since D.H. is Korean, it only made since to go check it out and see if we could find any Korean food.  We found one little hole in the wall place that was incredible! I had never had Korean food before, but it was awesome! Definitely want to try it again.


After that, I put in a request to go see a movie in a movie theatre, again, something that I haven’t done in a year and a half. It’s particularly difficult considering that there are approximately… zero in Belize.  We saw the movie The Walk, which I really liked – spoke a lot about following your dreams and I’m a fan of that, so it got my thumbs up.  After that, I decided to ditch all the Mexican food and go for a personal pizza from Dominos.  If there’s two things that I had a lot of growing up, it was going to the movies and eating Dominos pizza. 

At another point during my time in the city, I wanted to search for the Clemson game.  I believe they were playing N.C. State or someone like that, so not a huge game, but, still, all games are important if you’re trying to go undefeated.  The day before, I had asked a little restaurant near our hotel if they had ESPN.  They said that they did and that it would be fine for me to watch the game there.  I got to the restaurant about 15 minutes before kickoff, we find ESPN, and low and behold, football.  The only problem was that this football was not American football, but Belizean and Mexican football AKA soccer. Turns out that in Mexico, they just have ESPN Deportes.  Luckily, they had internet so I was able to Gamecast the game while searching for the nearest Hooters on my iPod (I had heard that there was a chance Hooters may have the game).  Found the address.  Got to the Hooters.  Asked if they had American channels.  No dice.  By the time I got back to my original restaurant to watch the rest of the game on Gamecast, it was midway into the second quarter.  You’d think that in a city of 8.5 million people there would be somewhere that promoted American football…  Either way, Clemson got the win, so I was happy regardless. 

The next day, D.H. and I headed to the ruins of Teotihuacan, an ancient Aztec city.  Before going, I didn’t expect much more than the ruins I had seen in Belize at Xunantunich or Nim li Punit, but these ruins were on an entirely different level.  There wasn’t just one temple, but three, all connected by a mile long road lined with ancient merchant stands.  I have never seen anything like that before.  At one point, I was sitting at the top of one of the temples looking out over everything, and I realized that if you were to take away the tourists, this would be very similar to what it would have looked like hundreds, if not thousands, of years ago.  In past trips to ruins, I always wanted to be able to do this – put myself back in time so that I could see what the people then saw.  There, at Teotihuacan, I was able to do that.  It was incredible.

 
On my last day in Mexico City, November 1, D.H. and I went into a small suburb of Mexico City called Mixquic (Mizkeek) that we had heard was poppin’ for Dia de los Muertos.  The biggest day for Dia de los Muertos is the second, so a lot of people were still setting up decorations, but the place was still packed.  There had to have been thousands of people there that came out to see the decorated graves and the old church.  I thought it was interesting that in the cemetery of that old church, there is a statue of an Aztec god that remains there to watch over the dead.  It was interesting to see the ancient believes still mixed in with modern day Christianity.  We hung out for in the suburb for a few hours trying all the different food and visiting decorated graves.  Right before we were going to head out, there was a small parade that marched through the crowd carrying giant figures that seemed like something out of Nightmare before Christmas.  Even though I didn’t get to experience the big day, it was still awesome to get to dip my toes into something that is so uniquely Mexican.  Who knows if I’ll ever have that opportunity again?


The next day, I said goodbye to D.H., who was staying to meet up with another friend, and began my journey back down to Belize.  I left the apartment about 7:00 in the morning and arrived to Belize about 6:00 PM… the next day.  That’s right, 35 hours of travel.  It was rough.  On the way out, I said goodbye to the big cities, the infrastructure, the metro, and of course, the street food.  I would miss the 60 degree weather and being able to use a toilet on the bus, but as I sat there halfway through the 11 hour bus ride between Cancun and Belize City, I began to think of the caldo that I would surely eat when I got back to the village and my mouth started watering.  I began to think of all the people in the village that I would get to see again and share stories with.  Yup, I was ready to be back home.


Friday, December 4, 2015

Back to School! And Other Stuff

Sorry for the three month old blog post, but my computer broke.  Such is life in a developing country…

Nothing is a more reliable, and terrifying, indicator of how fast my Peace Corps service is going as major events that take place in the village and even in my household.  To a villager, these would seem like normal annual events, but for me, it’s a reminder that I have just one more year left.  September was full of these little reminders. 

To start with, I had my last first day of school with the kids and teachers in the village.  It was actually a little bizarre to see different faces in all their different classes.  Not having last year’s Standard VI class there was also odd.  Instead, as is typically the case with schools, a new group of students had taken their place.  Luckily, I have developed a very good relationship with this group during the previous year, but it’s an adjustment having to call them the “seniors” of the primary school.  And next year, they will hopefully all be in high school and another group will replace them, and so continues the cycle.  It’s crazy to think that one day, even the little Infant class won’t be so infant any more. 

With the start of the school year came new goals that I’ve set for myself and the school, one of the biggest being the student leader program.  This year is the year where I start to hand over the program, creating what will hopefully be a sustainable program that will teach students about the importance of leadership years down the road.  After a roller coaster ride during the nominations and election process (there was a lot of, “Are you running or not?” going on), I’m happy to say that we have a great, motivated group of kids looking forward to the coming year.  One of the boys is also hilarious.  He came by my room one day and we had the following exchange:

Felipe: “I used to be a spider once, but I changed.”

Me: “Oh? What kind of spider were you?”

Felipe: “SUPERMAN!!”

I don’t know if I’ve been in the village too long or what, but I thought it was hilarious.

The big thing that they are looking forward to is fundraising for a trip to Xunantunich, a Mayan ruin in central Belize.  This trip will, hopefully, include trips to the capital where students can meet with some of the leaders in the government as well as healthy cooking lessons in Punta Gorda.  This is going to be a rather expensive trip, though, so I’m happy to have a teacher at the school who is very excited in learning how to write grants and proposals.  Together, I’m hoping that we can knock out a grant to help fund the trip.  This way, not only the students are benefitting but so is the teacher, and, ultimately, the school.

They will also be continuing to help the school through a variety of projects and other clubs.  The first of these is to continue work in the library, something that was a huge success among all of the students last year.  The main difference this year is that I’m not working it.  I’ve set up a system with the student leaders and the teachers in which two days a week, they open up the library.  This way, it can continue once I’m gone.  I am also going to work with the teachers on opening up a few clubs that the student leaders have said the other students would be interested in.  These include an art club, a gardening club, and an exercise club.  The student leaders are also going to work to bring a tire park to the village using old recycled tires.

I have also started a BRO Club, BRO being short for Boys Reaching Out, with the Standard IV-VI boys in the village.  So far we’ve only had two meetings, the first as an introduction to the club, the second on goal setting.  For the next meeting, we’re going to watch Cool Runnings and ask the boys to identify the different aspects of goal setting that we talked about during the second meeting.  We tried to do this during the second half of that meeting, but I went to move the desk that my computer was on and it went crashing down (hence the reason I’m typing a September/October blog post in December; also, it should be noted that originally, this was typed in early November, but my computer broke again so here we are, December).  The boys seem to have enjoyed the first few meetings and are really into the idea of watching movies to reinforce the different lessons we’ve discussed.  Some future lessons will be teamwork, gender and racial equality, and healthy living.  I’m even working with some of the other volunteers to get a BRO camp up and running where different BRO clubs from all over the country will get together for a week long camp.  This is one of the projects that I’m most excited about!

This coming year, I’m also trying to work a lot more with the Community Health Worker.  One of the things we decided to focus on this year was working hard to make sure that we got the minimum required one school visit.  I’m excited to say that, not only have we done the lessons, but that he has been a major motivator!  In September, we taught Infant I-Standard II students about brushing teeth, and then passed out tooth brushes and paste that were giving to us from the Hillside Clinic.  Then, in October, we gave a lesson to Standard III on having good hygiene.  I’m extremely proud of the growth that I’ve seen in him.  He seems excited and motivated about the health of the village.  He is in an extremely difficult position, but he’s doing a great job.  None of the work that I’m doing would be possible without him. 

Another reminder of how long I’ve been here is Independence Day, you know, the party in the village where they rip the ducks heads off. Yeah, it’s really been a year since I first witnessed that.  This year, though, I decided not to attend.  Instead, I played volleyball with some of the boys and younger men in the village.

Independence Day was also an excuse to have festivals for the weekend leading up to it.  On Friday, the school had its queen pageant in which three or four older girls at the school collect money.  Each dollar is equal to a vote.  They then had a talent show where they had to recite poems, do dances, and answer questions.  Between each round, there was a chance for the audience to donate more money to the girl they thought performed the best.  The whole event is a big deal in the village, and loads of families came out to support their favorite “contestant”.  This was also a great way for the school to raise money.

The following day, there was a football marathon in the village.  Ten teams participated and about a hundred fans or more, including the Area Representative, came out to watch.  My friend, Dan, even came out with his village’s team to play, and they actually took first place!

In the past few months, the latrine project has also continued at an impressive pace.  By the end of December, we should have over 20 latrines constructed!  That being said, donations are still very welcome!  Make sure that if you’re interested in donating, you clearly indicate that this is for San Vicente Latrine Project, Ac Yuam Development group. Any donations are welcome.  The villagers are also extremely grateful for everything that you all have done!

Other than that, I’ve been involved in a decent amount of work outside of the village.  I was able to Skype a group of Clemson students interested in doing Peace Corps and tell them about my experience as well as what Peace Corps is all about.  I’m also working on some drawings for a friend who is putting together a manual for the Community Health Workers that will make house visits much easier.  It will also act as a way to explain difficult concepts to them so that they can take that knowledge and pass it to the village. 

It hasn’t been all work here, though.  I’ve also taken some time to get out of the village and relax with friends.  In general, volunteers get three personal days a month that do not accumulate where they can go and take time outside of site, as well as two vacation days a month that we can accrue.  For example, if I want to go into PG for a night, I’ll use a personal day.  If I want to go on a week and a half vacation to Mexico, I’ll take my vacation days.  In early October, I decided to use some of my personal days to go to Caye Caulker and hangout with some other volunteers.  This just so happened to coincide with the Clemson-Notre Dame game.  Needless to say, I had a blast!

Side note: Go Tigers, yeah?! 12-0! Whoda thunk it after losing so many key pieces on defense.  They look great, though! Defense will need to tighten up some against UNC in the ACC Championship game, but I have full faith that they’ll come out motivated and ready to play! 


Aside from that, I’ve also been waking up to run around 5:00 most mornings.  I signed up for a half marathon in Placencia, but weather here has gotten pretty rainy so a lot of mornings I wake up and play on my iPod while listening to the rain outside.  In other words, training hasn’t been going too well.  Just looking forward to spending time with the other volunteers.  Should be a great weekend!
Some other things I’ve noticed that have made me go, “Wow, have I really been here that long?”:

My host nephew turned 7.  He was 5 when I got here. 

I have seen my host family construct a completely new house out of cement in which I am know living.


I put my host nephew in a head lock and started play fighting with him in a semi-public place.  He got angry, pushed me off, and said, “I’m not a baby! You can’t just come and play with me whenever you want!” I now kind of know how parent feel when their kids say that they are embarrassing them.  That wouldn’t have happened a year ago, but he is in high school now.  I blame the change on that.  Apparently, though, he still is kind of a kid at heart.  That evening, he came and jumped in my hammock and wouldn’t leave until I picked him up and dragged him out my room, laughing the whole time.  Kids, man, they grow up so fast…